Written by: Obaa Izuchukwu Thankgod
The Ultimate "No-BS" Guide to Yacht Chartering in St. Croix
Introduction: The "forgotten" sibling
If you’ve ever booked a yacht charter in the Virgin Islands, I’d bet my last bottle of Cruzan rum that you went to the BVI or looped around St. John. And look, I get it. The BVI is the "Disney World" of sailing—line-of-sight navigation, a beach bar every 400 yards, and calm waters that could barely spill your Painkiller.
But there is another island. A bigger island. An island that sits alone, 40 miles south of the main pack, floating in the deep blue like a defiant outpost.
 |
| Caribbean Island |
St. Croix.
Most charter companies in St. Thomas will try to talk you out of going there. They’ll tell you it’s "too far." They’ll say the crossing is "rough." They’ll act like you’re asking to sail to Mars.
They are wrong. And they are keeping the best-kept secret in the Caribbean all to themselves.
I’m going to tell you why St. Croix is actually the superior charter destination for the adventurous soul. I’m going to break down exactly how to get there, where to drop your hook (and where definitely not to), and why jumping off a pier in Frederiksted might be the highlight of your year.
This isn't a brochure. This is the guide I wish I had before I untied the dock lines.
 |
| Caribbean Island |
Part 1: The "Crossing" (It's Not That Scary)
Let’s address the elephant in the room—or rather, the shark in the channel. The reason 90% of charters never see St. Croix is the St. Croix Crossing.
St. Croix lies about 35-40 nautical miles south of St. Thomas. In the sailing world, that’s a "day sail." But because the Virgin Islands are usually about 3-mile hops, 40 miles sounds like an ocean crossing to some people.
The Reality:
You are crossing the open Caribbean Sea. There is no land protection.
The Direction: You’re usually sailing South-Southeast. The trade winds blow from the East. That means you are likely on a beam reach (wind from the side)—the most glorious point of sail known to man.
The Waves: Yes, you will have swells. They might be 4 feet; they might be 6 feet. But on a 45-foot catamaran, you’re surfing, not suffering.
Pro Tip: Leave St. Thomas at 6:00 AM. You’ll be dropping anchor in Christiansted by lunch. Watching the mountains of St. Croix rise out of the mist while you’re doing 9 knots under full sail? That is a core memory, my friends. It feels like actual exploration, not just connecting the dots.
 |
| Caribbean Island |
Part 2: The Boat (Choose Wisely)
If you are doing St. Croix, charter a catamaran.
I’m a monohull purist at heart, but for this specific trip, the stability of a cat is non-negotiable for two reasons:
The Crossing: If you have non-sailors on board, the lack of heeling (tipping) makes the open ocean passage 10x more enjoyable for them.
The Anchorages: St. Croix doesn't have as many "pond-calm" protected coves as the BVI. Some of the best spots, like off Buck Island or Gallows Bay, can get a little roll. A catamaran swallows that roll; a monohull amplifies it.
The Setup:
Ensure your charter company allows St. Croix. Some have "chase boat zones" that exclude it. You specifically want a boat with a watermaker (water is harder to fill up here than in Tortola) and a high-quality dinghy (you will be doing some longer dinghy rides to shore).
 |
| Caribbean Island |
Part 3: Christiansted – The Heart of the Action
Navigating into Christiansted Harbor is... interesting. It’s protected by a massive reef system. You have to follow the channel markers religiously. Do not shortcut. The coral heads here are ancient and unforgiving.
Once you’re in, you have entered one of the most picturesque harbors in the Caribbean. The Danish architecture—bright yellow buildings with red roofs—pops against the green hills.
Where to Stay:
Gallows Bay: Go past the main town dock and anchor in Gallows Bay. It’s quieter, holding is good (sand/grass), and you are right next to the best provisioning spot (more on that later).
Hotel on the Cay: You can anchor just west of Protestant Cay. It’s right in the middle of town. You hear the steel drums, you see the seaplanes landing. It’s vibrant.
The Vibe:
Christiansted Boardwalk is the social hub. Unlike the "tourist trap" feel of Charlotte Amalie (St. Thomas), Christiansted feels lived-in. The bars are filled with expats, sailors, and locals mixing seamlessly.
Must-Do in Town:
Walk the boardwalk to Brew STX. They brew their own beer right there. Get a table by the water, order the Ahi Tuna Nachos, and watch your boat swinging on the hook.
 |
| Caribbean Island |
Part 4: Buck Island – The Reason You Came
If you take nothing else from this article, listen to this: Buck Island Reef National Monument is the single best snorkeling spot in the Virgin Islands. Period.
It’s an uninhabited island off the northeast coast. The water color here isn’t blue; it’s a neon, electric turquoise that looks like it was photoshopped.
The Logistics (CRITICAL INFO):
Permits: You cannot just drop anchor anywhere. You need a permit to anchor in the designated sand strip off West Beach. If you are on a private bareboat charter, you need to apply for this anchor permit in advance from the National Park Service. Do not skip this. Rangers are active.
The Underwater Trail: On the east side of the island, there is an underwater "trail" marked by plaques on the sea floor. You usually cannot take your big boat there. You anchor at West Beach and dinghy over (if calm) or take your big boat to the specific moorings on the south side if available.
The Strategy: Most tourists come on day-trip catamarans from 10 AM to 2 PM.
Your Move: Arrive at 3:00 PM. The day boats leave. You have one of the world’s most beautiful beaches entirely to yourself for sunset.
The Experience:
Walking on West Beach feels like being cast away. The sand is like powdered sugar. The snorkeling? You’ll see sharks (friendly Reef Sharks), turtles, Spotted Eagle Rays, and coral pillars that rise 30 feet from the bottom like cathedral spires.
 |
| Caribbean Island |
Part 5: The North Shore & Salt River
Sailing West from Christiansted along the North Shore is deep water sailing. The depth drops off fast—the Puerto Rico Trench starts near here.
Salt River Bay:
This is a historic heavy hitter. It’s where Christopher Columbus landed in 1493 (and got into a fight with the Carib Indians—the first recorded conflict between Europeans and indigenous people in the New World).
But the real magic happens at night.
The Bio Bay (Bioluminescence):
Salt River is home to one of the few "super" bioluminescent bays in the world.
How to do it: You can anchor in the mouth of Salt River (check depths, it gets shallow).
The Secret: You need a moonless night. If the moon is full, don't bother.
The Tour: Do not try to take your dinghy into the protected Bio Bay alone; it's restricted to protect the organisms. Call Bush Tribe or Sea Thru Kayaks. They will meet you at the marina inside the bay.
The Magic: As you paddle your clear-bottom kayak, the water glows neon blue. Fish darting underneath look like shooting stars. It is psychedelic and spiritual.
Caribbean Island
Part 6: Frederiksted – The West End chill
Sailing around the west end of St. Croix is a vibe shift. The wind dies down as you get in the lee of the island. The water turns into a flat sheet of glass.
The Anchorage:
You anchor right off the town of Frederiksted. It’s open roadstead anchoring, but because the prevailing winds are East, it’s usually dead calm.
The Pier Jump:
The Frederiksted Pier is a cruise ship pier, but when no ship is in (which is often), it’s the town’s playground.
Diving: It is arguably the best "easy" dive in the Caribbean. You don't need a boat. You just walk off the beach or jump off the pier. The pylons are covered in seahorses, frogfish, and octopus. A night dive here is legendary.
The Jump: Locals and sailors gather to jump off the pier into the crystal clear water. It’s a rite of passage.
Sunset Ritual:
Because you are on the West Coast, the sunsets here are unobstructed. Sit on the bow of your yacht, cocktail in hand, and watch the green flash. The town of Frederiksted is sleepy, historic, and charmingly dilapidated in a way that feels authentic, not run-down.
 |
| Caribbean Island |
Part 7: Food & Provisioning (How to Eat Like a King)
One of the myths about St. Croix is that it’s hard to provision. Actually, it’s easier than St. Thomas if you know where to go.
Gallows Bay Provisioning:
If you anchor in Gallows Bay (Christiansted), you can dinghy right to the dock at Seaside Market & Deli.
The Selection: This isn't a bodega. They have gourmet cheeses, good wine, fresh produce, and a deli counter that rivals Whole Foods.
The Hack: Do your big provisioning here. They will even cart the groceries down to the dinghy dock for you.
Dining Out Recommendations:
Savant (Christiansted): This is the best restaurant on the island. It’s tucked away in a courtyard that looks like ancient ruins. The food is Thai-Mexican-Caribbean fusion. Reservations are mandatory.
Rum Runners (Christiansted): The classic sailors' spot. Right on the water. Strong drinks, solid conch fritters.
Polly’s at the Pier (Frederiksted): The best brunch. Get the grilled cheese with truffle oil after your morning dive.
La Reine Chicken Shack: It’s inland (take a taxi). It’s a roadside shack. It serves the best rotisserie chicken you will ever eat in your life. It’s cheap, cash only, and usually has a line of 50 locals. Join the line.
Caribbean Island
Part 8: The Cost Breakdown
Is St. Croix cheaper than the BVI? Yes and No.
The Yacht:
Charter fees are generally similar to St. Thomas, perhaps slightly lower because there is less demand. You can often find better availability on newer boats because everyone is fighting for the BVI inventory.
Mooring/Anchoring:
BVI: You pay $40-$50 a night for a mooring ball almost everywhere.
St. Croix: Anchoring is mostly free. You save $300-$400 a week just on mooring fees.
Permits: The Buck Island permit is negligible compared to the BVI cruising taxes and park fees.
Food/Drink:
Restaurant prices are about 15-20% lower than St. John/St. Thomas.
Groceries are expensive (it’s an island), but quality is high.
The "Hidden" Cost:
Fuel. You are covering more distance. St. Thomas to St. Croix and back is 80 miles, plus circumnavigating St. Croix. You will burn more diesel than a week putting around the Sir Francis Drake Channel.
 |
| Caribbean Island |
Part 9: A 7-Day "Unconventional" Itinerary
Here is the route for the ambitious sailor.
Day 1: Board in St. Thomas (Red Hook). Sail to Christmas Cove (Great St. James) for the night. Grab a pizza from Pizza Pi (the floating pizza boat).
Day 2: The Crossing. Up early. Set sail for Christiansted. Arrive mid-afternoon. Anchor in Gallows Bay. Dinner at Brew STX.
Day 3: Explore Christiansted town in the morning. Sail to Buck Island (5 miles). Anchor for the afternoon/evening. Snorkel the trail. Sunset on the boat.
Day 4: Morning swim at Buck Island (before the crowds). Sail West to Salt River Bay. Kayak the Bio Bay at night.
Day 5: Sail around the West End to Frederiksted. Dive the pier. Dinner in town.
Day 6: The long sail back. Depart Frederiksted, sail North-East back toward St. Thomas. Aim for Water Island (Druif Bay). It’s a long day, but the wind angle is usually favorable (beam/broad reach) coming back.
Day 7: Chill at Water Island (Honeymoon Beach). Short sail back to Red Hook for checkout.
Caribbean Island
Part 10: The Final Verdict (The "High Information Gain" Summary)
St. Croix isn't for everyone.
If you want to bar hop every hour? Go to Jost Van Dyke.
If you want calm water 24/7? Go to the BVI.
If you want to see and be seen? Go to St. Barths.
But go to St. Croix if:
You actually like sailing (trimming sails, reading charts, watching the horizon).
You hate crowds.
You want to see a Caribbean that feels authentic, where locals stop to talk to you because they aren't burned out by 10,000 cruise shippers a day.
You want to swim with sharks at Buck Island and glow in the dark at Salt River.
The crossing scares people off. Let it. That just means more lobster, more conch, and more empty beaches for you and me.
Captain’s Rating: 9.5/10 for Adventure, 6/10 for Ease.
Pack your bags. The big island is calling.
 |
| Caribbean Island |
Quick Reference Guide
| Category | St. Croix Detail |
VHF Channel | 16 (Standard), but locals use 10 & 11 |
Best Market | Seaside Market (Gallows Bay) |
Must-Have Gear | Snorkel gear, Reef-safe sunscreen (law), heavy anchor snubber |
Watermaker? | Highly Recommended |
Night Sailing? | Not recommended due to unlit pots/reef |
Cell Service | Good (AT&T/T-Mobile work like US domestic) |
Disclaimer: Sailing conditions change. Always check NOAA marine forecasts before attempting the crossing. Don’t be a hero—if it’s blowing 30 knots, order another Painkiller and wait a day.